AVILA 2002

Though many in this county were still in a state of shock after the horrific events that took place on September 11, 2001, members of the choir made a commitment to continue with the planned pilgrimage to Spain. Fifty-one choirboys, along with family and friends, for a total of 131 pilgrims journeyed to Avila, Spain to celebrate Semana Santa (Holy Week) 2002.

Of course, no trip is without its troubles and we learned quickly what ours would be. Arriving in Madrid, we were dealt a slight delay…lost luggage. While it was frustrating, it did not dampen the spirit of those waiting for the bus ride to our first destination, the Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caidos or Holy Cross of the Valley of the Fallen. By a Decree issued on April 1, 1940, it was decided that the Monument to the Dead in the Spanish Civil War should be erected.

As we approached the monument, the grandeur of the view literally did take our breath away. We climbed two flights of the great granite steps, one hundred meters wide, ten steps to each flight  - intended to symbolize the Ten Commandments. The bronze doors are no less spectacular - ten and a half meters high - displaying the fifteen mysteries of the Rosary with the twelve Apostles below and the Article of the Creed traditionally attributed to each. On the north wall in the atrium, an inscription commemorates it's rising to the status of Basilica by Pope John XXIII. After some time to drink in the sights, the boys gathered to sing. The sound echoed through the nave, out to the mountains only to return, as if calling one inside to this magnificent place.

Off to Avila and its majestic walls - standing so boldly since medieval times. A bishop of Avila once said `Avila is a sublime place of the soul, a symbol of religious experience, an interval for an encounter with ourselves and God.' As one entered the gate you could almost feel the arms of St. Teresa stretched around these walls protecting all who enter in just as a child feels safe in his Mother's arms. We settled in our three hotels we were to call home for the next ten days. Each came with its own history, from a Bishop's palace, to an inn with walls dating to Christopher Columbus' time.

A quick bite to eat and then we gathered for a mini-tour of the town, courtesy of our tour guide, otherwise known as Mr. Tom. One of our first stops was to a large white sculpture of Teresa which sits just outside the walls - a silent guardian to all those who enter in. We paused to ponder and pose for pictures and then after a few words from Mr. Tom the sea of red shirts departed down the street to Teresa's birthplace, La Santa. Here is where Teresa started on her journey of life and here is where we will begin to trace her footsteps. We start with a tour of the museum and the first of many purchases at the religious gift shop. Back to the hotels…no boy complains about being tucked into bed.

Palm Sunday - March 24, 2002 - As the boys gather in front of the Cathedral for a 10 AM Call, passerby cannot refrain from taking in the sight. Who are these children, dressed in black cassocks, trimmed with red cape and cincture? We enter the Cathedral for the first formal singing engagement for this pilgrimage. For many of the boys, this is their first performance outside of Delaware Valley. The choirboys are ushered into the cloister to sing for the blessing of the palms. After Mass, many congregate in the plaza to watch the first of many processions this week. Throughout the town, life-size statues are pulled on carts depicting the events of Holy Week in a ritual that has been repeated for centuries. 

Later today, we gather for a Concert of Sacred Music at the Mosen Rubi Convent. The Dominican Sisters open their convent doors wide for this group of boys. Many hugs are exchanged and a few cherub cheeks are pinched. The concert is a resounding success. And who could not miss the excitement on MaryCarmen's (Mr. Tom's - and the choir's close friend, a native of Avila) face as the boys sang Let Us Break Bread Together. You see, she sang this song on her trip to the United States! The boys charm the crowd -and the locals joined in singing the Avila Folk song. Of course, this would not be a children's choir without a few unplanned events…two boys with sore throats and one with a virus. Boys, moms, and a translator along with Mary Carmen are ushered off to the medical facilities _ our first trip there, but not the last. After the concert, even though it is late, many families gather near the cathedral for the evening procession, as they will continue to do throughout the week. 

Monday, March 25, 2002 - Off to Salamanca. Before entering Salamanca we stop at Alba De Tormes to the Convent of the Discalced Carmelites where St. Teresa died and where her saintly relics are enshrined above the main altar. The bus drops us just outside of town. We begin our journey walking the same streets Teresa did. The group pauses for a few moments outside the chapel for a few words from our director. We enter into this holy place. The boys gather in front of the main altar and their song echoes through the air. No organ or piano just pure treble voices proclaiming Santa Teresa and Bookmark. Teresa revealed herself to many as they entered into this holy place. The smell of Sanctity…one cannot describe the aroma. Having had the honor of Teresa reveal her presence, only makes one wonder if we have the strength and courage to fulfill what she asks us to do in God's name.

As we enter Salamanca, the Roman bridge is to our right with twin cathedrals in the background. The New Cathedral (Catedral Nueva) was built in 1513 at the request of King Ferdinand the Catholic when the Old Cathedral (Catedral Vieja) 1150 became too small. Here we will explore the University City, visited by Irish priests since the time of reformation, stop to view Casa de Las Conches or House of Shells and have lunch in one of Spain's finest plaza's. Oh my, that couldn't be the familiar golden arches' of fast food could it? As a few run for that familiar `fast food', most of us will try to blend with the locals for a sampling of Spanish cuisine. Of course, blending is quite hard to do as we enter into a game of charades while trying to order lunch. Back to the buses we go for a stop at Cuatro Postes for a panoramic view of Avila. Cuatro Postes - The Four Posts - Of course only this choir comes equipped with their own four Posts, that is, Harrison, Alex, Vince and Vicki! What a breathtaking view…one can see the entire city of Avila. As the boys climb on the rocks and pose for a picture or two, this writer pauses to reflect on what brought Teresa to this place. Having a deep desire to be with God, Teresa and her young brother are intercepted here by their uncle as they tried to pass this ancient Station of the Cross as we did - not to climb on the rocks or for a view of the city - but to run off to become a martyr so she can become a saint and get to heaven. What an incredible gift of faith this young girl was given.

Back to Avila…the gates are open. Off to our rooms for a much needed night's sleep.

Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - No formal plans today. Some families were off to Madrid to tour the city and the Prado. Others were climbing the walls…that is, the walls of Avila. Many of the boys and their families spent the day on the walls. Mid day the boys gather atop the walls to sing Happy Birthday to Tom's mother, Mrs. Windfelder. Who could ever imagine that one would be standing on the walls of Avila - almost a millennium old - singing into a cell phone to someone back in the states. After dinner, one can walk down any street and you are sure to spot part of the choir family gathered for the procession. Some are off to dreamland after the first procession while others enjoy a café con leche before gathering for the solemn procession. As we stood along the wall of a narrow street a cantor proclaimed the events unfolded over 2,000 years ago. We watched the penitents walk the cobblestone street, barefoot with chains secured to one's ankles. As we stood in silence, one could only ponder the significance of standing on a street named `life and death' to remember that Jesus died so that we may have life.

Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - Off to Segovia. First stop…Monastery of La Encarnicion. In this convent, Teresa began her long walk toward the Lord. In this monastery she received her first mystic grace and from it she departed to begin her reform four centuries ago. Here we find many traces of St. Teresa, her convent cell, the famed chapel of the Transverberacion along with her personality and spirituality. A statue of St. Joseph with his mouth open - oh please, St. Joseph please share your stories with us. We shall return tomorrow.

We depart for the Convent of the Padres Carmelitas Descalzos. Here we find the tomb of St. John of the Cross. His intact uncorrupt body rests in this ancient monastery that he himself built, stone by stone twenty years prior.

Alcazar - A visit to this majestic fortress is most interesting, allowing the imagination to go back to the 12th century. For some a taxi ride was in order while others braved the incredibly steep climb up the hillside. No matter the means of the journey, the destination was worth it. The fairy tale castle, perched on the edge of a cliff and complete with moat is certainly worthy of its role in the movie Camelot. Some bid farewell to Alcazar and found their way through the winding cobblestone streets into town. After stopping to eat we toured the Cathedral with its incredible soaring ceilings and serene courtyard. Out to the plaza and in search of one of the most interesting of all monuments of the ancient world, the Roman Aqueduct. This remarkable work of engineering from the first century transported water from more than 15 kilometers away. Its huge blocks of granite are joined by an opposition of forces without any kind of mortar. 

Back to Avila - yes the gate is open. Many of the choir families again gather to partake in the nightly procession.

Holy Thursday, March 28, 2002 - Happy Birthday Santa Teresa. We walk to Las Madres, The Convent of San Jose. This is the first convent that Saint Teresa founded dedicated to St. Joseph, the Saint of her greatest devotion. After lunch, time to search for that special souvenir or two and maybe a quick nap before the evening Mass. We gather at St. Vincent Gate to catch a shuttle bus to The Incarnation for Holy Thursday Mass. Here is where Teresa penned The Bookmark. Here is where the lower choir, with its old organ, is a witness to the great efforts which St. Teresa had to make in order to accustom herself to the psalmody and the singing which she found so difficult to learn for "nature has not endowed me with a good voice.' It was also a witness to Our Lady's apparition in 1572 when She said to Teresa during the singing of the Salve: `You were right when you decided to put me here for I am able to hear the praises which are sung in honor of my Son and so I can present them to Him.' Here is where our boys offer their gift of voice. Here in this holy place as the boys and sisters raise their voice in song, we ask Teresa to present our gift of song to Mary to present to Her Son.

Back inside the walls, we gather again for a solemn procession.

Friday, March 29, 2002 - Good Friday - The Canon invites us for a special tour of the Cathedral, giving us a chance to view a rare collection of artifacts from past centuries. This afternoon you can spot many of the choir families visiting Our Lord in the Blessed Sacrament at many of the churches throughout town.

St. Thomas Monastery - To enter the kingdom of God, one must remain like a child. Who could better portray that scene than Alex Krencicki. One couldn't help but smile as he explained the marble tomb of Prince Don Juan, only son of King Fernando and Queen Isabel. The boys' singing added to the solemness of the service. So impressed where the locals they asked if the choir could sing again next year. Following the service the choir was given a tour of the Monastery. We walked through three lovely cloisters, Noviciado, Silencio and Reyes and as we entered the raised choir many of the boys couldn't resist the chance to sit in the King's chair.

The gates are open and we are inside the walls for the Good Friday procession.

Holy Saturday, March 30, 2002 - This is a Saturday like all others. The boys are dressed, fed, with music bag in hand ready for 10 AM practice. Grab the extra binders, music stands, chair, chaperones and practice, practice, practice. No time for sleeping in. Not one complaint is heard, the boys are in awe as they enter the LaSanta choir loft. The rest of the day is spent soaking in the local sites, purchasing a few more souvenirs or spinning tops in the plaza. Early to bed, we turn the clocks ahead one hour.

Easter Sunday, March 31, 2002 - Happy Easter. By 11 AM, the sea of red capes in front of the cathedral is drawing second looks from locals and tourists alike. A few directives from our tour guide and it is down the street of `life and death' out the gate and down the street to the Statue of St. Teresa. Here we attempt to take a group choir picture - an undertaking not unlike herding cats. After what seems like several dozen pictures, it is time for a group shot of our choir family. This is no easy task and locals stop to take in the sight.

La Santa - The boys will sing their last formal engagement of this Pilgrimage concluding by a rendition of the Official Hymn to Santa. Teresa. One cannot help to notice the once stately priest now standing with a grin from ear to ear. As they enter into their best performance of Santa Teresa the priest is moved to tears.

After Mass, one by one these pilgrims enter in the Chapel of St. Teresa. Again, she will reveal herself to many. Tears flow gently down the cheeks of parents and boys alike.

Slowly we find our way to the buses and head south. We arrive at Santuario De Neustra Senora De Sonsoles. The following for this Virgin began around 1080. The boys offered their gift of song and families were invited to profess their devotion to Our Lady by placing  themselves under Mary's mantle, symbolic of Her Maternal protection, for a personal moment of prayer and petition. We gathered for Easter Sunday Dinner - a traditional Spanish holiday meal. The boys were anxious to get to one of Spain's oldest bullrings (Sans the bull, much to the relief of many mothers it was just a ring and no bull.)  

Back to Avila and, yes the gate, is open. Time for another walk down the streets that Teresa herself walked, and out to the Roman bridge to gather in that last piece of history. The rest of the evening is spent packing and enjoying that evening cup of café con leche.

Monday, April 1, 2002 - There is quietness among us as we gather to head home. One can barely comprehend all the happenings of Semana Santa 2002. It is a rare opportunity for one to be able to trod down the path of not one but two Holy Saints, Santa Teresa and Saint John of the Cross. Looking out among these pilgrims one cannot help but wonder if there is a Saint among us.

 

Ah, yes... Avila... come in, the gates are open.

 

 

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